Lunch and walk around
Chur
Many of us have passed through the old city of Chur by train
or car on the way to the beautiful Graubünden mountain resorts but have not
thought of stopping to explore the place. This omission can be rectified with
this suggested visit. You can visit the tourist information office at Chur
station. Plus see this link: Chur tourism
From the station turn right towards the pedestrianized town
centre, past the Bündner museum, and
then at Postplatz turn left. You can
enjoy lunch in one of the more traditional Graubündner restaurants, such as the
Romantik Hotel Stern in Reichsgasse.
Then follow the old cobbled streets of the cantonal capital where Switzerland's
fourth language, Romansch, is spoken. The city dates back to 11,000 BC, a
civilization only recently uncovered by archaeological exploration carried out
by the University of Zürich. Roman remains have long been in evidence in the
city, however.
Chur was home to the portrait artist Angelica Kauffmann whose family home in the Reichsgasse 57 dates
back to 1741. On an opposite wall at number 64 look out for an old iron 'shoe
measure' of 30 centimetres. The Reformation was brought to Chur by local
preacher Johannes Dorfmann, who spoke at the church of St. Martin, which dominates the town square. This church
boasts the second largest clock face in Switzerland after St. Peter's in
Zürich. Inside the Gothic church you should admire the windows by Augusto
Giacometti and the font of Bad Ragaz marble. Outside note the distinctive grey
stone or scelera which is a feature of many local houses and fountains.
Chur boast many small shops in its narrow streets and you
should look out for the window display of the local butcher or Metzgerei where
Bündnerfleisch is a speciality. Other local
foods include capuns, a vegetable dish wrapped in leaves, and maluns, a
stodgy dish made from potatoes and flour which was popular during the hard
winter days. Many of the old houses in the streets behind the Obere Gasse backing on to the River
Plessur feature oriel windows and pulleys to bring goods up to the upper
floors. Look out for old shop signs such as the tailor's scissors. See also this link to restaurant suggestions in Chur: Chur restaurant suggestions
The Roman Catholic
cathedral is reached by steps up through the gate tower to the Hof, a spacious square at 630 metres
above sea level. It is built in the late Romanesque style and was completed in
1272. Unless the church is closed for a service, you can see the old
choirstalls and the crypt. Nearby was the old
bishop's palace dating back to the sixth century although remodeled more
recently. The Hof and the cemetery behind the cathedral are wonderful vantage
points to admire the views of the formidable mountains which surround the city
of Chur. A final stop is at the Rathaus
which houses a model of the city. It is believed that Chur takes its name from
a Roman tribe, the Cura, and has always been an important strategic location.
Once you have visited this charming city you may be tempted
to return soon to explore again at leisure.
By Julia Newton, 25 January 2012. Updated April 2016.
